Like to Make Your Own Hunting Gear? Post your ideas/gear Here
- Thread starter hm1996
- Start date
I've tried to like tripods, but guess they are just too complicated for an old man. One leg too many, and that leg always seems to be getting in my way. Since I cannot sit flat on ground for multiple reasons (everything down here has thorns or bites, add in arthritis, well you get the idea), I haven't figured out how to maneuver behind a tripod to make lateral adjustments and moving tripod, especially in knee high grass/bushes is difficult to impossible (for me).
I even tried a great idea for a compound set of sticks suggested by a PM member. This rest is really great on the range, but not handy in the field IMO. Combined with a backrest on your chair or back against a tree, this set of sticks is so close to a set of bags on a bench so as to shoot bughole groups! Backrest stops fore-aft movement which causes vertical stringing.
Compound sticks are simply two sets of sticks, the front set attached to the back set at the foot. Using fiberglass fence posts, drill holes at the pivot points and thread 1/8" paracord through holes, fasten w/knots, making two separate sets of sticks Next cut about 1" off end of rear set and drill holes for paracord to attach front set to back set of sticks, as shown. Hopefully the following pics are clear enough to illustrate.
Cut an inch or so off bottom of the rear set of sticks as shown above
Lace each set of matching sticks together as shown in top picture
Deploy as show (obviously, the front rest should be under forend of rifle in actual use) Rifle is also in the sticks backwards, I like the long (pointed) stick to the front so a bit of forward pressure can be applied in use.
Moving the rest side to side is difficult w/tripod, and even more so w/compound sticks than with simple set of sticks, so back to dancin' with the gal what brung me. Did I say I like shooting sticks? Well in case I didn't, I do.
Making simple set of sticks from coated garden stakes is simple. 3/8" will work for sitting sticks but easily bent in the field so 3/4" is stronger and a must for standing sticks.
I glue double headed nails in foot of 3/8" sticks using JB Weld to keep them from slipping.
Lash the two legs together w/para cord
Ghillie netting can be added for a bit of cover to help mask small movements when calling if desired, or not....
Sticks are also useful when walking through tall grass to encourage any creepy crawlers to move out of your path and even make a good improvised target frame should you need to check a zero in the field.
ETA:
Everyone's Thoughts on Bipod/Shooting Sticks?
I even tried a great idea for a compound set of sticks suggested by a PM member. This rest is really great on the range, but not handy in the field IMO. Combined with a backrest on your chair or back against a tree, this set of sticks is so close to a set of bags on a bench so as to shoot bughole groups! Backrest stops fore-aft movement which causes vertical stringing.
Compound sticks are simply two sets of sticks, the front set attached to the back set at the foot. Using fiberglass fence posts, drill holes at the pivot points and thread 1/8" paracord through holes, fasten w/knots, making two separate sets of sticks Next cut about 1" off end of rear set and drill holes for paracord to attach front set to back set of sticks, as shown. Hopefully the following pics are clear enough to illustrate.
Cut an inch or so off bottom of the rear set of sticks as shown above
Lace each set of matching sticks together as shown in top picture
Deploy as show (obviously, the front rest should be under forend of rifle in actual use) Rifle is also in the sticks backwards, I like the long (pointed) stick to the front so a bit of forward pressure can be applied in use.
Moving the rest side to side is difficult w/tripod, and even more so w/compound sticks than with simple set of sticks, so back to dancin' with the gal what brung me. Did I say I like shooting sticks? Well in case I didn't, I do.
Making simple set of sticks from coated garden stakes is simple. 3/8" will work for sitting sticks but easily bent in the field so 3/4" is stronger and a must for standing sticks.
I glue double headed nails in foot of 3/8" sticks using JB Weld to keep them from slipping.
Lash the two legs together w/para cord
Ghillie netting can be added for a bit of cover to help mask small movements when calling if desired, or not....
Sticks are also useful when walking through tall grass to encourage any creepy crawlers to move out of your path and even make a good improvised target frame should you need to check a zero in the field.
ETA:
Everyone's Thoughts on Bipod/Shooting Sticks?
Hudson
New member
I've been thinking of how to make a top. Great idea with the post anchor
@49thoffgrid
New member
I recently took 1000D cordura and stitched together these shooting bags. For fill I am using an ultra light weight purlite. I attach this to my chest rig using a carbiner and don't even notice it is attached it is so light weight. I was originally concerned with stability with the squishy fill but it has performed extremely well.
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@49thoffgrid
New member
I’ve been using this type of shooting stix for over 30 years, they are my must have, apart from my Binos when I Go Deer (Sambar) hunting, mostly bush. They are made from 16mm dowell sticks ( timber yard shop) they are 5’4”, they suit my height
a taller person maybe would need a bit longer!? wound and banded together at the top by 1” cut strips from tyre tubes and knotted together. One at the top has a rubber knob, I rest my binos on that one for steady glassing. The bases have in each a glued in cement nail, and a rubber band to hold them together when transporting them. These work great, standing, kneeling or sitting on a log or even ground (I avoid that now because of my age!!!) one stick has about 5 self tap screws spaced along it, handy for lifting or separating fence wires when I need to get thru..
* I worked in a Gun shop for nearly 20 years and when young people asked about bipods, I showed my shooting stix, and the benefits they have, it’s amazing how in the end they mostly chose Harris bipods or their copies, completely ignoring 30 years of experienced advice!!
this is a great forum, and I listen to all view and opinions, and am still learning, thanks to all for your input.
Jay
a taller person maybe would need a bit longer!? wound and banded together at the top by 1” cut strips from tyre tubes and knotted together. One at the top has a rubber knob, I rest my binos on that one for steady glassing. The bases have in each a glued in cement nail, and a rubber band to hold them together when transporting them. These work great, standing, kneeling or sitting on a log or even ground (I avoid that now because of my age!!!) one stick has about 5 self tap screws spaced along it, handy for lifting or separating fence wires when I need to get thru..
* I worked in a Gun shop for nearly 20 years and when young people asked about bipods, I showed my shooting stix, and the benefits they have, it’s amazing how in the end they mostly chose Harris bipods or their copies, completely ignoring 30 years of experienced advice!!
this is a great forum, and I listen to all view and opinions, and am still learning, thanks to all for your input.
Jay
Attachments
IndexFinger
Active member
Packing your Batteries around . (battery cards) Cheap on wallet easy to make. Tell your grandma with the sew machine to Just take some stiff scuba webbing, and do a couple Elastic loops for holding the bigger 18650's. keeps them secure in your Pack side pockets.
Also, same for the smaller AA's and 123's . Some Velcro back-sewn on webbing and position some Elastic with loops sewn. You got batteries easy fast when needed on the helmet.
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Also, same for the smaller AA's and 123's . Some Velcro back-sewn on webbing and position some Elastic with loops sewn. You got batteries easy fast when needed on the helmet.
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IndexFinger
Active member
I did me up some new Carry Packs to throw in my Pack for the, FoxPro 10-AA Battery Cradles last week .
Was tired of my old ones, and these are a little more refined than the old ones I made myself years back. fully enclosed and secure protection. 1000 denier nylon inside and out, with belt-loop connection on backside, with closed-cell padded .
The FoxPro 10-AA cradles are reliable nice, but one of it's flaws is when you drop them. the AA's will pop out of the slots . So I also like to put a couple of Rubber Bands around the cradles when there loaded-up. extra security when keeping extra cradles in my field pack pockets.
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Was tired of my old ones, and these are a little more refined than the old ones I made myself years back. fully enclosed and secure protection. 1000 denier nylon inside and out, with belt-loop connection on backside, with closed-cell padded .
The FoxPro 10-AA cradles are reliable nice, but one of it's flaws is when you drop them. the AA's will pop out of the slots . So I also like to put a couple of Rubber Bands around the cradles when there loaded-up. extra security when keeping extra cradles in my field pack pockets.
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IndexFinger
Active member
LOL... they are professionally done, It just that I don't advertise, run a website, don't do Facebook, Instagram.. etc. , but I been owning/buying/wrenching on sew machines, and patterning,cutting,sewing a longtime .
A lot of guys have there own personal wood shops, or Sew Leather, or have Couple garage bays and lift for Car restoration., or elaborate firearms build and repair . Me, I do have a loading room, wrench on guns, hunt coyotes, but I also have my own 'complete' personal Sew Loft .
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